Prepare to be captivated by a timepiece that defies convention and challenges the status quo. The Owl from L’Atelier Bernard is not just a watch; it’s a bold statement in the world of independent horology, blending avant-garde design with a forgotten mechanical marvel. But here’s where it gets controversial: in an era dominated by sleek, minimalist designs, this watch dares to be unapologetically eccentric, leaving some to wonder—is it genius or chaos? Let’s dive in.
Independent watchmaking is experiencing a renaissance, thanks to a new wave of creators pushing boundaries. Among the most intriguing recent releases is The Owl, a six-piece limited edition that’s already sold out. Crafted by the dynamic duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz in Fleurier, this watch is a masterclass in contradiction. Its unconventional aesthetics clash—or perhaps harmonize—with equally unconventional mechanics, making it a standout in the crowded indie watch scene.
And this is the part most people miss: The Owl isn’t just a watch; it’s a rebellion against the ordinary. Gone is the traditional dial, replaced by an inverted movement that’s a riot of colors and textures. Gold and dark blue accents dance against warm grey and copper tones, creating an immediate visual impact. But the real star? The two large, symmetrical barrels that eerily resemble the curious eyes of an owl—a design choice that’s both playful and profound.
At the heart of The Owl lies a mechanical surprise: the duplex escapement, a relic from the early 18th century. Is this a nostalgic nod to history or a risky gamble? The duplex, with its frictional rest and deadbeat tangential impulse, was once superior to the cylinder escapement but fell out of favor with the rise of the lever escapement. Yet, L’Atelier Bernard has resurrected it, adding a layer of complexity that’s both fascinating and polarizing. Does it work? Surprisingly, yes—but more on that later.
The movement itself is a study in contrasts. Lavishly engine-turned barrels sit alongside a coarsely grained mainplate, while mirror-polished countersinks coexist with a crude, parachute-style shock absorber. This intentional juxtaposition of refined and rustic finishes gives The Owl a unique personality, hinting at the youthful energy of its creators. Even the crown, placed at 12 o’clock in a bullhead-style, challenges traditional norms.
The stainless steel case, with its angular lugs inspired by the Cornes de Vache, slopes downward, revealing the side view of the oscillator through a domed sapphire crystal. It’s a design choice that’s as functional as it is aesthetic, though it might not appeal to everyone. Is this a step too far, or a brilliant reinterpretation of classic design? You decide.
Priced at CHF150,000 before taxes, The Owl is an ambitious debut that promises to fund L’Atelier Bernard’s next project—an entirely new caliber. But what makes this watch truly special is its ability to provoke thought. The duplex escapement, with its efficient impulse and problematic locking function, is a testament to the watchmakers’ skill. Yet, it’s not without flaws. The constant pressure of the locking teeth acts as a friction brake, dampening the oscillator. Is this a dealbreaker, or a small price to pay for such innovation?
L’Atelier Bernard’s version of the duplex adds a safety implement to prevent galloping, a phenomenon that can bind the escapement. The free-sprung balance, beating at an unusual 1.5 Hz, gives the watch a sense of slowed time—a poetic touch in our fast-paced world. The absence of a seconds hand, while practical due to the escapement’s peculiar sequence, might disappoint some. But isn’t that the beauty of it? The Owl isn’t for everyone—and that’s precisely why it’s so compelling.
The finishing touches are equally thought-provoking. Gold inlaying, concave bevelling, and guillochage on the barrel drums showcase the watchmakers’ artistry. Yet, the grained surfaces and utilitarian shock absorbers remind us that this is a tool as much as a work of art. Is this a harmonious blend or a clash of styles? The debate is part of the charm.
As we await the delivery of these six pieces in 2026, one thing is clear: The Owl is a breath of fresh air in a world saturated with Geneva stripes and perlage. It’s a watch that demands to be discussed, debated, and admired. So, we leave you with this question: Is The Owl a masterpiece of modern horology, or a beautifully executed experiment? Let us know in the comments—we can’t wait to hear your thoughts.
